Vietnam, but away from the ’gram

Vietnam, but away from the ’gram

5 days ago | 19 Views

So, you’re going to Vietnam. You can’t wait to reach Ha Long Bay and post an unsolicited deck pic captioned ‘Waited Ha Long time to come here’. There’ll be a selfie with the train rushing past. There will be photos of good coffee. You’ll drop pins on all the must-visit cafes. A walk around the French Quarter in Ha Noi is part of the dream.

Dream bigger.

Most visitors to Vietnam tend to follow the same routes. They either start with Ha Noi and head south to Ho Chi Minh City, or journey other way. And they’ll throw in Da Nang too; a selfie at the Golden Bridge is a must, after all.

Stray off the path. Outside of the tourist trail is a whole other country. The national carrier, Vietnam Airlines, flies to several smaller domestic destinations, on short, easy flights. Here’s what to add to your Vietnam itinerary – if it ever makes it out of the group chat.

Ninh Binh has lush rice paddy fields and ancient temples to explore. (ADOBE STOCK)

Ninh Binh. Only 90 kms away from Ha Noi lies a little province that packs in a lot. If you want good shots of the countryside, this is where to go. Limestone karsts (landscapes with monoliths, sinking streams, caves and springs) rise dramatically, the rice paddy fields are lush, the rivers are gentle and winding. Head to Tam Coc and Trang An for boat rides. Ninh Binh was the site of Vietnam’s first capital, Hoa Lu, in the 11th century. That means there are many, many ancient temples and structures to wander through, including the Bai Dinh Temple complex, one of the largest in Vietnam. Then, reward yourself with com chay (crispy rice) and de nui (mountain goat), both local specialties. Be warned, mountain goat is chewy and more gamey than Indian mutton.

Da Lat. Unlike most parts of Vietnam, the weather in Da Lat, in the central highlands, stays cool all year round. It’s probably why French colonisers escaped here during the hottest months, and why locals and tourists do too. It’s the spot for a low-stress, slow break. There are enough pagodas, waterfalls, and lakes to explore. The night market near the lake doesn’t offer much in terms of shopping (though the street food stalls are bomb).

The Da Lat Clay Tunnel, with its giant, under-explored animal sculptures, statues and scenic viewpoints is what will bring out the “Where is this?” comments on Insta. But history buffs shouldn’t miss the summer palace of the last emperor of Vietnam, Bai Dai, which has a French-Vietnamese house and gardens. If you’re travelling between busy cities, this is a good stopover. The city is also famous for an unusual dessert: avocado ice cream. We recommend the avocado coconut variant. With extra coconut chips.

When in Sa Pa, take a train and then the cable car to the top of Fansipan, the country’s highest peak. (ADOBE STOCK)

Sa Pa. North-west Vietnam has miraculously stayed pristine even in the age of Instagram. It helps that the endless terraced fields and mountains call for more moving around that most travellers like. Take a mountain bike and ride around undisturbed all day. Or book a cable car to the top of Fansipan, the country’s highest peak. Or trek up, if you’re feeling ambitious.

The town is home to a few ethnic minority groups. Their villages and markets are open to visitors and the stalls sell fun souvenirs such as silver jewellery, bags and clothes, and handmade soap. Don’t forget to try the thang co, a traditional Hmong stew. It’s made with the meat, bones, and offal of horse, pig, or buffalo, accompanied by cabbage, lemongrass, chayote, and chilli leaves. The secret sauce is literally a sauce – with a slightly bitter zing.

Mu Cang Chai. From Ha Noi, fly 300 kms to Mu Cang Chai and rent a motorcycle or car to take in the oval hills, overlooking 2,000 hectares of rice terraces, a large chunk of which is a National Heritage Site. Try to head here during Water Pouring season (May-June) when large pools of water collect, reflecting the clouds, sun and sky above. You can even paraglide above them. Or head to Aeris Hill, from where you can zipline over them for 1.2 kms. Every bend and turn of the road offers a stunning vista. It’s a moderate hike too. And book a homestay instead of a resort or a hotel. The homecooked grilled pork with forest trees, or the tu le sticky rice (served with ant eggs) are worth it.

Expert picks

Parul Pratap, chef-owner, Music & Mountains. In Ha Noi, I love USEbar, where they use every part of an ingredient, make gins and wild cocktails! Vi Lai is possibly the best vegan Vietnamese restaurant, and Luk Luk serves excellent local indigenous food from other parts of the country. If you love ceramics and coffee, then May Kitchenware makes the best coconut coffee and stocks stunning stoneware crockery.

Shannon Fernandes, Vagabond Experiences. I did a 12-day trip across the country this year and had the best banh mi in Da Nang. It was at a roadside stall called Banh Mi Co Phuong. It’s very close to the beach and run by an old lady. I ate five portions in two days from just this spot. It was magnificent. I dream about it occasionally. Try Bun cha which is grilled pork and noodles. I tasted it across four cities and the best one was at My Quan Bun Cha Pho Co in Sa Pa. Sa Pa has a great night market for grilled/barbecue food.

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