India Gate, Delhi. Things have changed a bit after the Central Vista project. It’s more crowded. The cops clear out the picnickers on those expansive lawns. It’s impossible to take a picture without other visitors in the frame. A plan to restart boating in the precinct was mercifully abandoned early this year (it would waste too much groundwater). But the monument itself, built to pay homage to the 70,000 Indian soldiers who died in World War I between 1914 and 1919, is unchanged.

Buland Darwaza, Fatehpur Sikri. Mughal emperor Akbar built the entrance to the Fatehpur Sikri complex in 1575-76 AD to celebrate his conquest of Gujarat. It’s a nod as much to his religious tolerance as it is to his military prowess. The entryway is decorated with verses from the Quran, a Persian inscription that quotes from “Isa [Jesus], son of Maryam [Mary],” as well as symbols sacred to Hindus. This year, funds were allocated for a light-and-sound show at the monument, so try to visit it at dusk when this is ready.

Patrika Gate, Jaipur. Inaugurated only in 2020, Patrika Gate is now on every list of India’s most Instagrammable spots. It marks the entrance to Jawahar Circle Garden, and had its moment when Bujji, the lovable robot-car from Kalki 2898 AD, arrived there for the movie’s promotions. The architecture is a mix of Rajput, Mughal and contemporary styles. Vibrant murals tell the story of Rajasthan and its talented artisans. The nine arches represent the nine planets. Why Patrika? It was built by the newspaper group.

Rumi Darwaza, Lucknow. Standing since 1784, this onetime entrance to Old Lucknow City sports a new pinkish tone after a recent round of restoration gave it a fresh coat of surkhi (burnt clay). It was commissioned by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula as part of a food-for-work programme when the region was struck by famine. The entryway is 60 feet tall. The Rumi in the name refers to the ancient Rum region of the modern-day Turkey. No connection to the poet, alas.

Lahori Gate, Delhi. It was on the Red Fort’s ramparts that Jawaharlal Nehru unfurled the tricolour and delivered his first Independence Day speech on August 16, 1947. Shah Jahan built the original 41-foot-high garrison —the primary entrance to the fort— in 1648. The two cannons at the entrance were added in 2019. The gate faces Lahore, hence the name. It’s characterised by arched panels, semi-octagonal towers over open pavilions and miniature chhatris with marble domes that rise between the pavilions.

Serai Nurmahal, Nakodar. One of the many Mughal marvels that received the patronage of Nur Jahan, wife of emperor Jehangir, the Serai Nurmahal is a red sandstone structure in the heart of Punjab, dating to 1618. Influences from both Islamic and Hindu design show up in the architecture: There are angels, lotuses, nymphs, lions, elephants, birds, peacocks, men on horseback and more. Restoration work in 2014 gave the entryway a makeover. The two stone pillars supporting the roof were repaired, damaged stones and ornamental work were painstakingly recreated and replaced.

Gateway of India, Mumbai. It was erected to commemorate King George V and Queen-Empress Mary’s visit to India in 1911, though the royals, when they came, passed through a plaster model. It’s truly a gateway – it’s what people arriving in Bombay by sea would first glimpse after it was completed in 1924. It’s now barricaded – you can’t pass through. But you can catch a film or Insta shoot, or see it illuminated for a runway show. Or join a photography workshop and try to capture a frame no one hasn’t before.

Sikandra Gate, Agra. Few visitors to the Taj Mahal add this one, on the outskirts of Agra, to their list. They should. It’s magnificent. The double-storeyed red sandstone gateway that leads to Mughal emperor Akbar’s tomb is marked by a central archway with wings and two recessed arches, one over the other. Its four white marble minarets resemble those of the Taj Mahal, though they’re older. Akbar had started its construction but it was completed, after he died in 1605, by his son Jehangir in 1614.

The Fort Ramgarh, Panchkula. At 37 feet tall, the main gate of The Fort Ramgarh – a heritage hotel today – holds the Limca Book of Records for being the tallest wooden gate in India. Historically known as the Nalwa Gate, it was made by the Chandel Rajput dynasty that settled here over a millennium ago but was destroyed during the 1857 mutiny. Descendants of the erstwhile royal family, who continue to live on the premises, reconstructed the monumental doorway in the 1980s using 343 custom copper plates and spikes. These grand doors take you through the fort, but what remains today is essentially just the women’s chamber.

Bhadkal Darwaza, Aurangabad. There are 52 grand entryways in the city. It’s called City Of Gates. But the Bhadkal Darwaza is possibly the grandest. Built in 1612 by Malik Ambar, a peshwa of the Ahmadnagar sultanate, it served as the gateway to the city. The ribbed vault technique used in its architecture was unique back then. Restoration work has finally removed the ugly lime coat. So, you can see the chiselled black rocks, which despite their weight, rest elegantly on the archway’s eight pillars.

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