Melanin serves as a natural barrier against ultraviolet (UV) radiation, effectively filtering out more than 90% of UVB rays and over 80% of UVA rays in individuals with deeply pigmented skin. Nevertheless, elevated levels of melanin can also heighten the risk of hyperpigmentation, rendering skin of colour (SOC) more susceptible to dark spots, uneven skin tone, and melasma.

Dr. Renita Rajan, the Founder of CHOSEN, stated, “Although darker skin is less prone to sunburn, it is still significantly at risk for pigmentation disorders and photoaging. The use of a well-formulated sunscreen is crucial for preventing discolouration and preserving skin health.” She further elaborated.

1. Sunscreen beyond SPF: The need for broad-spectrum protection

For individuals with Indian skin, pigmentation represents a significant issue, which can be induced not only by UVB rays but also by UVA, HEVL, and infrared radiation (IR). It is crucial to employ broad-spectrum protection to avert conditions such as uneven skin tone, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).

2. HEVL protection: The hidden factor in pigmentation

Many traditional sunscreens do not effectively shield against HEVL (blue light), which significantly contributes to hyperpigmentation in skin with high melanin content. Recent advancements in formulations now incorporate iron oxides and additional HEVL filters to offer this essential protection, aiding in the prevention of pigmentation from its source.

3. Long-wear sunscreens: A necessity, not a choice

Research on consumer behavior substantiates a widely recognized fact: the majority of individuals fail to reapply sunscreen during the day. This reality underscores the necessity for long-lasting, high-efficacy sunscreens, especially among Indian consumers. To provide effective sun protection, sunscreen formulations must be engineered to function under actual environmental conditions, rather than solely relying on laboratory assessments that presume reapplication.

4. Antioxidants: Enhancing sunscreen protection

Antioxidants such as Pycnogenol, Astaxanthin, Silymarin, and Polypodium, alongside UV filters, are essential for enhancing protection against not only UV radiation but also visible light and infrared rays. These antioxidants are effective in neutralizing free radicals, mitigating inflammation, and preventing oxidative stress, thereby offering comprehensive protection specifically suited to Indian skin.

5. Balanced protection: The key to effective sunscreen

A quality sunscreen must provide uniform protection across the entire ultraviolet spectrum, extending beyond mere defence against sunburn (UVB). The level of UVA protection should correspond with the SPF rating to effectively mitigate photoaging and pigmentation issues. Recent formulations emphasize a balanced approach to UV defence, guaranteeing thorough skin protection rather than prioritizing a single type of UV radiation.

6. Sensible formulations: Ingredients matter

Certain sunscreen ingredients may not be appropriate for individuals with skin of colour. Bergamot oil and lemon oil are recognized as photosensitizers that can exacerbate pigmentation issues in this demographic and should be excluded from sunscreen products. Furthermore, an increased number of ingredients in a sunscreen formulation can heighten the likelihood of allergens and irritants, a significant concern for consumers in India. Thoughtful formulations emphasize the use of safe, non-irritating components that provide protection without worsening pigmentation or inducing skin sensitivity.

Is your sunscreen enough?

Dr. Renita Rajan stated, "Sunscreens vary significantly in their formulations, and selecting the appropriate one for Indian skin tones is crucial. An effective sunscreen should not only provide SPF but also deliver broad-spectrum protection, safeguard against HEVL, offer antioxidant benefits, and ensure long-lasting wear to align with actual consumer usage."

She stated, "Thanks to the progress in sunscreen technology, individuals with Indian skin can now take advantage of products that not only offer protection but also maintain skin health, prevent pigmentation, and improve overall skin resilience. The future of sun care transcends mere protection; it focuses on intelligent protection specifically designed for skin of color."

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