
Rude Food by Vir Sanghvi: Who Requested the Enhancement?
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At times, a seemingly ordinary snack, sandwich, or street food can gain immense popularity. Esteemed chefs become involved, leading to a surge in prices, while other restaurants start to replicate the innovative variations introduced by these renowned culinary figures.
A notable instance of this phenomenon occurred with the burger approximately thirty years ago. While basic versions of the burger had always been readily accessible—especially following the expansion of fast-food chains—there also existed the steakhouse burger, which emphasized the quality of the beef patty. In contrast, fast-food establishments typically offered lower-quality patties that were not the focal point of their offerings. Steakhouse burgers, on the other hand, were crafted from premium meat, utilizing the leftover trimmings from steaks, which could easily be ground into patties.
However, what the culinary world lacked—and perhaps did not require—was the emergence of the gourmet burger.
It is noteworthy that many of the chefs who sparked this trend were not American and had not been raised on traditional burgers. Daniel Boulud gained attention at his casual DB Moderne restaurant in New York by offering high-priced burgers. Gordon Ramsay created a burger featuring foie gras, while Joel Robuchon introduced sliders to his menu. Before long, chefs began incorporating black truffles and other luxurious ingredients into their burger creations.

That trend has seemingly faded (or at least I hope it has), yet it has left a lasting impact. In both the fast-food industry and slightly above it, there are now establishments that offer high-quality burgers, prompting enthusiasts to speculate about the specific recipes and the blend of beef cuts used in the patties.
Visiting McDonald’s carries no pretentiousness, but now, when one dines at Shake Shack, there is an opportunity to indulge in the notion of seeking a more refined gourmet experience, as the burger has achieved a cult following.
For a time, I believed that the hot dog would receive similar recognition. In London, Karam Sethi of the JKS group launched Bubbledogs, which paired hot dogs with champagne. Meanwhile, in New York, Daniel Humm created the Humm Dog, featuring a bacon-wrapped beef frankfurter topped with truffle sauce. (Humm introduced it at NoMad, which he previously owned, and it gained popularity worldwide, even appearing for a time at a stall he opened by the lake in Zurich!)
However, the hot dog did not gain traction in the same manner, and I found myself anticipating which relatively simple food would next receive an upscale makeover. I had placed my bets on fried chicken, which, as regular readers may know, has long been a personal passion of mine.

The KFC variant, widely recognized, traces its origins to a dish that has been cherished in the American South for many years. While there are numerous regional adaptations of American fried chicken, few stand out as particularly unique, with the exception of the banana fritters served alongside Chicken Maryland.
For an extended period, I endeavored to convince Indian chefs to incorporate our masalas into fried chicken recipes. Although their attempts produced several promising outcomes, it wasn't until Chintan Pandya created the ideal Indian fried chicken at Rowdy Rooster, the American establishment he co-manages with his business partner Roni Mazumdar, that the goal was truly achieved.
I remain hopeful for the global expansion of Rowdy Rooster Chicken; however, I also placed a side wager on the international appeal of Khao Man Tod, the Thai fried chicken. Unfortunately, I was mistaken, as Thai restaurants were reluctant to offer it, both in Thailand—where one must visit a specialized shop for the dish—and internationally. My belief was somewhat validated when Seefah launched a successful outlet for the dish in Mumbai a few months ago, but regrettably, I have lost the broader bet.
I had also been optimistic about the prospects of karaage, a Japanese fried chicken specialty, but it has become increasingly evident that much of the world tends to view Japanese cuisine primarily through the lens of sushi. Japan's diverse and delectable snack foods often struggle to gain international recognition.

I have been pleased to observe the rise of a new variant of fried chicken that is gaining popularity worldwide: Korean fried chicken. This particular style surpasses many others due to its remarkably crisp batter, achieved through the technique of double-frying the chicken at two distinct temperatures.
In New York, COQODAQ, owned by the creators of the renowned Korean steakhouse Cote, has become a sensation by pairing fried chicken with champagne. They assert that in Korea, enjoying sparkling beverages alongside fried chicken is a cultural norm.
While this may hold some truth, it is worth noting that the sparkling drinks typically consumed with fried chicken in Korea do not include Krug champagne. Admittedly, Coca-Cola lacks the sophistication of champagne, even though it is a more common 'bubbly beverage' enjoyed with fried chicken. Despite my inclination to critique the pretentiousness of pairing champagne with such a simple and affordable dish, it is undeniable that champagne complements all batter-fried foods due to its acidity, which balances the fried texture.
COQODAQ is not alone in this innovative approach. Other Korean fried chicken establishments in New York are also experiencing long queues, with champagne becoming a key element of the dining experience.
Interestingly, caviar has also emerged as a trendy topping for fried chicken. While I find it difficult to understand how this combination works, perhaps my perspective is too traditional, or I simply have not sampled it enough to appreciate it.

In a way, this concept mirrors that of Daniel Boulud’s burger, where he transformed a simple dish by incorporating luxurious ingredients like truffles. Similarly, Korean cuisine is now utilizing caviar to achieve a comparable enhancement.
This notion is not entirely novel. David Chang, who is also of Korean descent, previously employed this technique at Momofuku before it became a trend in newer Korean establishments. However, I anticipate that this trend will soon gain momentum globally.
Therefore, during your next visit to a fashionable restaurant in Mumbai or Delhi, do not be surprised to find fried chicken accompanied by caviar on the menu. If you wish to indulge (caviar is now readily available in major cities in India, and prices are more affordable than ever when adjusted for inflation), you could simply purchase fried chicken from KFC (if a Korean chicken restaurant is not nearby), add a dollop of sour cream, and top it with caviar. (Champagne is not a necessity!)
While this may sound extravagantly indulgent, it is likely to be less expensive than dining at a five-star hotel restaurant. Additionally, you can enjoy your meal without the need for formal attire, and it won’t matter if the cream leaves you with an off-white moustache; no one will be focused on your mess!
Alternatively, you could take a more straightforward approach and simply enjoy the chicken without concerning yourself with garnishes or a “bubbly beverage.”
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