It is both intriguing and somewhat satisfying. When you bring up dosas in conversation with discerning food enthusiasts, they often regard you with a hint of superiority and inquire, “But do you enjoy benne dosa?”

A newly opened restaurant specializing in benne dosa in Mumbai is bustling with patrons, while diners in Delhi are seeking it out at Carnatic Café, and hotels are eager to feature it on their menus. I became aware of the extensive reach of benne dosa's popularity when Daniel Humm, the chef-patron of the three-Michelin-starred Eleven Madison Park in New York, visited India last year. One of his first questions to me was, “Where can I find a benne dosa?”

Just as the act of boasting about benne dosa has evolved into a means for food enthusiasts to showcase their refined tastes, a similar trend of elitism has emerged around biryani. The era of flaunting the excellence of Lucknow biryanis has transitioned to a focus on the biryanis from Kerala. However, the prestige associated with discussing Malabar or Thalassery biryani has diminished. Now, the biryani that garners attention is the Donne biryani from another region of South India.

While I find this phenomenon somewhat perplexing, I am nonetheless pleased, as both dishes are deeply connected to a city I hold dear: Bengaluru.

I am uncertain about when these dishes became trendy topics of conversation. I have been enjoying benne dosas in Bengaluru for many years, and whenever I brought them up, it seemed that no one was particularly interested or impressed. The same goes for donne biryani, which I (perhaps mistakenly) appreciated mainly for the Bannur lamb that can accompany it.

To begin with benne dosa, if you are unfamiliar with it, envision the set dosas typical of South India. These are smaller, thicker, and spongier compared to the large, thin dosas popularized by Udupi restaurateurs across India, and they are often made at home.

A benne dosa may resemble these, although nowadays, they are prepared in various sizes. The key distinction lies in the texture: benne dosas are crispy on the outside while remaining soft in the center. Their flavour is also unique.

The clue is in the name, as "benne" translates to butter.

There are several competing narratives regarding its origins, but it is certainly not an ancient dish. The most widely accepted account traces its creation to Davanagere, located approximately 250 km from Bengaluru, where a woman named Chenamma is credited with its invention in the 1930s. Her sons established successful dosa restaurants in the 1940s, leading to its gradual spread to Bengaluru and other regions of Karnataka.

What sets it apart is the use of homemade white butter, indicating that a pan-Indian restaurant cuisine may have developed earlier than previously thought; the closest comparison can be drawn to the butter-laden breads of Punjab.

While Davanagere remains a hub for the benne dosa tradition, it has effectively become a dish synonymous with Bengaluru.

Davanagere remains a hub for the benne dosa tradition; however, the dosa has effectively become a dish associated with Bengaluru.

During my research for this article, I consulted various chefs and gathered an array of recipes. The primary distinction lies in the batter used. As Naren Thimmaiah, one of Karnataka's most esteemed chefs, noted, some chefs opt for the standard dosa batter, while others create a unique blend. Praveen Anand, who established the Dakshin restaurants for ITC, mentioned that certain chefs incorporate a small amount of rava to enhance crispiness. Chef Kasi, the current chef at Bengaluru’s Dakshin, adheres to the traditional batter but increases the amount of urad dal, as he believes that a benne dosa should have a softer texture compared to a regular dosa. The inclusion of ragi, which is said to have been part of earlier recipes, is seldom referenced today.

Ananya Banerjee, a renowned chef and author, has also been observing the benne dosa trend and has drawn similar conclusions. While there may be variations in the batter recipes, the growing popularity of the dish and the increasing number of restaurants serving it have led many cooks to adopt a single batter for all types of dosas.

Frequently, the same can be said about the masala accompanying the dosa. This is a more significant issue, as Chef Naren explained that the dish should feature its masala potatoes, which are milder than the masala typically found in standard Udupi restaurants. Chef Kasi concurs, preparing what he refers to as “white potatoes,” a gentler filling.

Ultimately, I question how much this truly matters to most diners. For them, the dish's allure primarily stems from the flavour and texture enhanced by the abundant use of butter. Nowadays, benne dosas are prepared with Amul butter and topped with even more butter.

The narrative surrounding Donne Biryani is somewhat more intricate. There is no definitive origin, and the name itself offers little clarity. "Donne" refers to the cups made from dried palm leaves that street vendors commonly use to serve biryani. As Praveen Anand notes, these leaf cups are prevalent throughout South India and are not exclusive to this particular biryani.

In many ways, Karnataka’s donne biryani does not significantly differ from other South Indian biryanis. It utilizes small-grain rice rather than basmati and lacks northern influences such as saffron or claims of layering and dum cooking.

While it may be a rice dish that does not align with the northern biryani tradition (despite its name), the exact origins remain uncertain.

Two prevalent theories exist. One suggests that it is a Maratha dish, which Kannadigas accept with surprising calmness, in contrast to Tamils, who become extremely agitated when it is proposed that their sambar has Maratha roots. If the Marathas were indeed its creators, then donne biryani is even less likely to be connected to the Mughal biryani tradition.

The second theory posits that it originated as military fare, as it is often linked to establishments known as military hotels in Karnataka, with one or two claiming to be its birthplace.

The authenticity of either story, or both, remains uncertain; however, Chef Naren emphasizes that the unique aspect lies in the spice blend, which includes mint and imparts a distinctive green hue. Praveen Anand concurs, noting that when biryani is prepared correctly, the spices create “a fantastic flavour.”

It appears that donne biryani can be prepared with either meat or chicken, yet my preference has always leaned towards the version made with Bannur lamb. In my more adventurous moments, I consider the biryani merely a medium to showcase the exceptional quality of the lamb.

Bannur, located in Karnataka, is known for its distinctive sheep, which are small, and white, with brown faces and long, drooping ears. The meat from these sheep is exceptional, arguably the finest lamb in India, and is highly sought after by renowned chefs like Naren.

Ideally, all donne biryani would feature Bannur lamb. However, due to the high cost of this meat, it is common to encounter chicken and goat variations. Many people appreciate these alternatives, but for those who indulge in culinary elitism, Bannur lamb is essential.

Ultimately, it is best to set aside any pretentiousness and simply relish the dishes.

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