Get your beauty sleep, by all means. But don’t nap for too long. In the cosmetics and skincare aisle, things are changing so fast, some products are almost unrecognisable.

We just about learnt to pronounce hyaluronic (hi-al-YOU-ron-ik) acid and understood it to be some kind of moisturiser. Now, there’s glutathione, cortisol, ceramides, hair sunscreen, kojic acid and retinol to worry about. It’s not just about dry, combination and oily skincare anymore – it’s about the microbiome, the bacterial ecosystem on the skin’s surface. Eww!

Some old favourites are holding strong: Sunscreen works, so keep slathering it on. Some products were gimmicks all along: Goodbye, sheet masks. Glass skin is still a mystery. Free radicals are still out there. But the cloud’s lifting on a whole lot else. Here’s a look at beauty and skincare today.

What is a skin microbiome. Should I worry about creepy crawlies?

Relax. A microbiome is merely the family of bacteria, fungal elements and viruses that live and interact on each person’s skin. They eat up dead cells, help heal cuts and do millions of useful jobs. It’s only when this balance is disrupted that conditions such as acne, eczema, or rosacea occur, says Dr Chytra Anand, celebrity dermatologist and founder-CEO of Kosmoderma Clinics.

Doctors have been studying it for decades, but it’s only recently become the focus of commercial skincare. “Your skin’s microbiome is closely connected to your gut microbiome – your skin mirrors the state of your gut health,” says Dr Harshna Bijlani, celebrity skin expert and founder of The Ageless Clinic. It may take up to a month for results to become obvious, but your eating habits will ultimately show up in the way your skin looks. “Consume prebiotics and probiotics as well as antioxidants as part of your skincare regime,” says DrJaishree Sharad, cosmetic dermatologist at Skinfiniti Aesthetic. These include curd, fruits, and fresh vegetables. Go gentle with cleansing, and avoid overusing exfoliators and antibacterial products.

Isn’t brown skin naturally protected from the sun? Why the buzz about SPF?

Alas, all skin is vulnerable to sun damage. At worst, it triggers skin cancer. But even in small doses, it makes skin age faster, causes sunburn and leaves splotchy marks on brown skins. Sunscreen, used right and religiously, can protect against much of this. “SPF numbers don’t matter as much as how you apply your sunscreen,” says Dr Meghna Mour, dermatologist and founder of Skuccii Supercliniq. “Use enough to cover all of your exposed skin – even the ears – and put it on at least 20 minutes before you step out. Reapply every three to four hours.” Spray-on formulas make this process less annoying, says bridal makeup artist Mrinalini V Gupta. “Even if you’re wearing makeup, mist it over your face on the go.”

For sun-intensive activities such as swimming or even a long commute, consider using a hair sunscreen too. “Sun damage makes hair brittle, dry and dull,” Dr Mour says. An intensive conditioner will do the trick too.

Is glass skin just one big Korean hoax?

It’s mostly White women or light-skinned Asians who’ve been showing off their clear, luminous faces. It’s difficult for Indians to achieve it as our skin is thicker and more prone to pigmentation, says Dr Madhuri Agarwal, aesthetic dermatologist and director of Yavana Aesthetic. Korean women are scrupulous about avoiding the sun and doing multi-step skincare routines morning and night. “Those routines are passed on almost like a legacy, from the grandmother to the mother to the teenage daughter. Koreans also eat a lot of fish, which has Omega-3 fatty acids, which is good for developing collagen,” says Dr Mour. Brown skins need professional treatments to get similar results.

Why is everyone obsessed with double cleansing?

Because oily-skinned men and women find that it’s more effective than using a single harsh cleanser to clear grime and pimple-causing build-up. “It’s a game-changer, especially if you’re prone to acne or spend a lot of time in polluted environments,” says Dr Bijlani.

Use an oil-based cleanser first (a balm, micellar water or cleansing oil). Follow up with a water-based cleanser (a face wash) to rinse away what the oil has dislodged. Gupta and Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, medical director and founder of Isaac Luxe, recommend it for those who wear sunscreen – regular face wash isn’t enough.

What’s going into our moisturisers these days?

Plenty. Ceramides, a classic ingredient, are being reinvented. They’re essentially lipids or fats that help prevent moisture loss, so the skin looks supple. Dr Agarwal likens the skin’s outermost layer to a brick wall. “The skin cells are the bricks; ceramides are the mortar that holds them together.” This is the layer that erodes when you scrub too hard, use strong serums or shower with too-hot water.

“Ceramide-based moisturisers are excellent for post-procedure recovery and for healing a bad skin barrier,” says Dr Sharad. Other protective add-ons: Glycerin, panthenol and centella asiatica. “Niacinamide fights pigmentation and the extra shine of oily skin,” says Dr Mour. Sunscreen is a great protector too.

Megha Asher, founder of Juicy Chemistry Facial, says natural oils are great, so long as you pick the right ones. Coconut, mustard, castor and sesame are too heavy to use as a face moisturiser. Hemp and rosehip seed oil work better.

What are the big beauty buzzwords for India?

Hyperpigmentation. Skincare brands have noted that brown skins are particularly concerned about dark patches. These are triggered by sun damage, hormonal disruption, an injury, or even something minor, such as picking at a breakout or a waxing/threading session. “Vitamin C and ferulic acid can reduce skin darkening; salicylic acid can treat melasma or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation; glycolic acid or phytic acid work well for other forms of pigmentation,” says Dr Bijlani. As always, sunscreen stops the problem from getting worse. Dr Agarwal recommends mild creams containing kojic acid, azelaic, arbutin or sabiwhite with retinoids and glutathione.

Retinols. The global standard for anti-ageing skincare is in both prescription and over-the-counter treatments. Not everyone needs it, warns Dr Mour. Most doctors recommend it for those over 30. “If your skin is continuously exposed to the sun, it will get pigmented faster and develop wrinkles earlier,” she says. “If you smoke excessively, don’t drink enough water, or consume too much caffeine, your skin will get dehydrated faster and will need retinol treatments earlier.”

Peptides. These short chains of amino acids serve as building blocks for collagen and elastin in our skin, and help maintain its firmness. They also help stimulate collagen – the stuff that keeps skin supple and line-free. So, they are a key ingredient in many anti-ageing products. “Look for collagen peptides while taking oral supplements, and for peptide drops in serums and creams,” suggests Dr Mittal Gupta.

Is skincare still obsessed with antioxidants?

Yes. But they’re tricky. The body produces them anyway. They fight damage from air pollution, cigarette smoke, alcohol, high blood-sugar, sunlight and other radiation, infections, too much or too little oxygen and too much exercising. So, in most cases, they’re busy already. It’s why most people turn to oral or topical antioxidants for blemish-free youthful skin, says Dr Anand.

There’s plenty to pick from: Vitamin C, vitamin E, glutathione, carotenoids, ferulic acid, green-tea extract, grape seed extract, resveratrol, curcumin and niacinamide. Use a serum that contains vitamin C, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid, says Aashi Adani, beauty content creator. “You’ll get the benefit of vitamin C’s anti-pigmentation properties, the soothing effect of niacinamide, and the hydrating power of hyaluronic acid.” Dr Mour recommends picking a vitamin C serum that suits your skin type. “It may irritate some types of dry skin, so use it with moisturiser. People with oily skin can just use it as is. Apply it before sunscreen.”

Do we still hate oils?

Yes and no. “Oiling your hair is trendy again,” says Asher. Rosemary and pumpkin seed oils are the ingredients of the moment. In the make-up aisle, lip oils are back. “They’re lightweight with more hydrating ingredients than lip balm,” Asher says. “Lip oils also have a high shine. So, people use them as lip gloss.”

The problem with oils is that they are heavy, trap dirt and are hard to wash off. Gupta recommends avoiding cocoa butter, coconut oil, almond oil, and oleic acid. “They can clog pores, trigger breakouts, and result in acne, blackheads and whiteheads.” Instead, Asher says that jojoba oil is rich in ceramides and has a “beautiful texture that resembles our skin’s sebum.”

Stress affects skin more than we previously thought. What’s going on there?

We’ve long known that stress triggers the release of the hormone cortisol, which can reflect on the skin as redness, sensitivity, patchiness, breakouts, dullness, dark circles, and even eczema and psoriasis. There are secondary effects too, says Dr Bijlani. “If you’re stressed… you might experience issues like acid reflux, which can manifest as dry, dehydrated skin.”

A family of plant-derived ingredients known as adaptogens help right the cortisol balance, and calm other hormonal responses. Find them in ashwagandha, turmeric, ginseng, gooseberry, rose water, basil, cica, reishi mushroom, rhodiola and goji berry. “They’re great for sensitive or stressed skin and for a healthy complexion,” says Dr Bijlani.

Dr Anand says adaptogens can also boost hydration, improve skin texture and enhance the skin’s ability to repair itself. Reduce some stress by just having a simpler skincare regime. “Use a gentle cleanser, sunscreen and a ceramide- and squalane-based moisturiser,” says Dr Sharad. Don’t exfoliate if your skin is a mess. Eat an antioxidant-rich diet, exercise regularly and get adequate sleep.

Much of good skincare isn’t about what you buy but how you live. “If you’re only sleeping for four to six hours a day, have long screen hours and not having a balanced diet, no amount of skincare will perform the way you want it to,” points out Asher.

Good riddance: Knock these trending items off your skincare wishlist

Sheet masks. “Personally, I never found them necessary,” says Megha Asher, founder of Juicy Chemistry. “Their benefits are short-term. It’s a high cost per use. There’s product wastage, and they’re bad for the environment.”

Collagen creams. Collagen molecules are too big to penetrate skin. You’re better off eating collagen-rich foods such as citrus, fish, nuts and chicken for better collagen production. Oral supplements are available, but they take three to four months for results to show, says Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta.

Acne and blackhead strips. Dr Mour says that they do nothing to clear skin congestions. “Use a face wash that has salicylic acid instead.”

Dermarollers. No product that creates micro-cuts on your skin is ever going to be a good idea. If they’re not sanitised and not used sparingly, they cause more skin problems than they solve, says Aashi Adani, beauty content creator.

Pore-minimising creams. “It’s the craziest thing I’ve heard of, because skin needs pores to breathe. It’s something that makeup can hide, but it’s not an issue that needs to be addressed with skincare,” says Adani.

LED masks. “They boost blood circulation and collagen production, and can kill bacteria,” says Dr Mour. But there’s not enough research on their long-term effects. Leave this to occasional salon treatments.

Dark-circle creams. “Dark circles are hereditary,” says Gupta. “You can’t do much except keep your skin hydrated.”

Face massagers. “If you learn the right techniques, your hands can do the job,” says Asher.

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