Let us commence the culinary segment of your weekend with three quiz inquiries. First: Identify a well-known dish that is typically superior at fast-food establishments compared to upscale restaurants. Second: Which vegetable from Gujarat are you most likely to encounter when dining out? Third: How does all of this relate to "the global presence of a prominent restaurant chain represented by a rather unsettling clown"?

The final question may provide a hint, as the dish in question is French fries. Therefore, there are no rewards for deducing the identity of the unsettling clown.

Indeed, French fries are generally of higher quality at the establishments associated with the aforementioned clown than at more expensive dining options. Regarding the second question: A significant portion of the French fries you enjoy when dining out originates from potatoes that were initially cultivated in Gujarat and continue to be produced there. This may explain why it could be your preferred Gujarati vegetable, even if you are unaware of it.

As for the third inquiry: All of this is indeed connected to McDonald’s. Continue reading to discover the details of this relationship.

The statement regarding the unsettling clown originates from Ben Shewry, arguably one of Australia’s most esteemed chefs and the proprietor of the Attica restaurant located in Melbourne. Shewry possesses a strong enthusiasm for French fries, which, similar to many Australians and Britons, he refers to as chips.

Shewry observes: “In Australia, very few restaurants prepare their chips. I am not referring to fast-food establishments, but rather to upscale, reservation-only dining venues. The majority of chips served in restaurants are produced by one of three large North American corporations.”

He is correct in his assertion. This phenomenon is also prevalent in India and numerous other nations. However, Shewry further notes, “Most fast-food chains utilize more sophisticated and costly deep fryers and chip-cooking apparatus than reputable restaurants, resulting in a superior execution of the same frozen chip. It is a complete deception.”

Before delving deeper into Shewry’s vivid Australian expressions, allow me to provide some context.

The North American firms he mentions distribute frozen fries globally. (In certain regions, local competitors attempt to replicate these products at reduced prices.) Most dining establishments procure large catering packs of these fries and simply place them in their deep fryers. Naturally, fast-food chains, which rely heavily on the sale of French fries, execute this process far more effectively than upscale restaurants where fries are merely one of many offerings on the menu.

Making French fries is far more complex than one might assume. The selection of the appropriate potato is crucial, requiring varieties with low water content and minimal sugar levels. It is often overlooked that most potatoes are harvested seasonally, and they begin to degrade immediately after being picked. Consequently, consistently sourcing the ideal potatoes throughout the year presents a significant challenge. Furthermore, until recently, the potatoes available in India were entirely unsuitable for producing French fries.

This explains the widespread reliance on frozen French fries in culinary settings.

Additionally, there exists a more insidious reason: profit motives and indifference. In countries like Australia, where suitable potatoes are available, it remains more convenient and cost-effective to purchase frozen fries. Moreover, upscale restaurants can charge significantly higher prices—up to four times more than fast food establishments—while serving the same product.

This scenario brings us to the introduction of a peculiar character.

When McDonald’s entered the Indian market, it initially imported frozen French fries from McCain, a Canadian company that fulfils their global potato requirements. However, as McDonald’s expanded its operations, it became logical to localize sourcing. The company requested McCain to procure Indian potatoes.

As anticipated, the potatoes cultivated in India were not ideal for French fry production. In response, McCain attempted to cultivate American potato varieties in India. The russet, a popular choice for fries in the United States, did not thrive in Indian soil, nor did the Maris Piper, favoured in the UK.

In a bid to address this issue, McCain’s scientists developed new potato varieties suited to Indian agricultural conditions. They established a frozen potato processing facility in Mehsana, Gujarat, and partnered with local farmers to cultivate these new breeds.

This initiative led to the creation of an entire industry and a new agricultural sector. Local enterprises quickly established their own processing plants in the region, and farmers across the neighbouring Banaskantha district began cultivating these newly developed potato varieties. As a result, India transitioned from having no suitable potatoes for French fries to becoming an exporter of specialized potato varieties.

All thanks to the creepy clown.

But, I hear you ask, given that the right potatoes are now available, why do fancy restaurants and five-star hotels in India still rely on frozen fries?

Creating fries from scratch can be quite labour-intensive. It involves more than simply selecting the appropriate potatoes. Even when opting for new varieties, one must meticulously cut them into uniform shapes, rinse them multiple times to eliminate excess starch, and then proceed to fry them. However, this initial frying is insufficient; a second frying is essential to ensure the exterior achieves the desired crispiness while the interior is properly cooked.

Once prepared, fries begin to lose their crispness within approximately ten minutes. If one can guarantee that the fries will be served immediately after being prepared, it is feasible to hand-cut and fry them twice. However, restaurants often face uncertainty regarding timing.

Additionally, the challenge of delivery arises. Freshly cut fries are likely to become soggy before they reach their intended destination. In contrast, using frozen fries alleviates these concerns. There is no need for a double frying process, as frozen French fries are not entirely raw; they have undergone a de-starching and par-frying process at the factory before packaging. This pre-cooking step halts the deterioration of the potatoes. Consequently, frozen fries can be placed directly into the fryer for a single cooking session and are less prone to becoming soggy. Manufacturers often apply a coating made from a blend of potato extract and tapioca to maintain their crispness, although there are claims that additional chemicals may also be involved.

Given all this, why would a restaurant bother with cooking fries from scratch?

There is an additional reason to consider. I had a conversation with Akriti Malhotra, the proprietor of Aku’s, renowned for offering Delhi’s finest artisanal burgers. She received her training at Bar Boulud in New York, where she learned the importance of hand-cutting French fries. This practice was the foundation of her work at Aku’s. However, as her business expanded—now boasting five locations with more on the horizon—she encountered challenges in sourcing quality potatoes. While she found that the best potatoes were indeed cultivated in India, they were primarily exported or allocated to frozen fry manufacturers. Consequently, only those potatoes deemed inferior reached the local market, and often even those were in short supply. Ultimately, Akriti decided to forgo her initial commitment and opted for frozen potatoes due to their reliability.

This scenario reflects the experiences of many well-meaning chefs, particularly when faced with the demand for large quantities of French fries. Vanshika Bhatia, who learned the art of making French fries (or pomme frites, as she was instructed) at the Cordon Bleu school in London, operates Petite Pie Shop in Gurgaon. She continues to purchase what is known as paradise potatoes, which she hand cuts and double cooks. She candidly acknowledges that her ability to do this is feasible because the volume of French fries required at a pie shop is significantly less than that needed in a burger establishment. Furthermore, she refrains from including fries in her delivery orders, as they tend to become soggy.

Thus, I concur with Ben Shewry that upscale restaurants should exert greater effort. It is unjust to charge premium prices for a product that fast-food establishments offer at a fraction of the cost.

However, for the majority of casual dining venues, I must admit that frozen French fries play an essential role. They provide consistency, and one does not need to possess exceptional culinary skills to simply pour a package into a deep fryer.

In the end, the unsettling clown emerged victorious.

Read Also: Breakfast Bliss: Crafting High-Protein Egg Bites at Home

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