Mandelic acid is an active ingredient you may have encountered if you utilize skincare products aimed at treating acne and preventing early signs of ageing. This well-regarded chemical exfoliant is recognized for its mildness on the skin. It aids in the removal of the uppermost layers of skin cells, thereby enhancing the overall appearance of your complexion. Integrating mandelic acid into your skincare regimen can effectively target various skin issues. However, it is essential to be aware of the appropriate concentration and frequency of use to avoid potential skin irritation, redness, or peeling.

What is mandelic acid?

Mandelic acid is classified as an alpha hydroxy acid, a category of acids that are naturally found in various sources such as fruits, milk, and sugar cane. According to dermatologist and cosmetologist Dr. Ashini Bhatt, mandelic acid is derived from bitter almonds and is commonly incorporated into numerous skin care formulations because of its mild exfoliating characteristics. Its gentle nature renders it appropriate for individuals dealing with acne and uneven skin tone.

What are the benefits of using mandelic acid for the skin?

It offers a wide range of benefits for the skin, making it a popular choice in skincare routines.

1. Reduces hyperpigmentation

Mandelic acid has proven to be effective in reducing dark spots, melasma—characterized by facial patches—and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Research published in the Dermatologic Surgery journal in 2009 supports its efficacy in addressing hyperpigmentation. An expert notes that it promotes skin cell turnover, which gradually lightens pigmented regions, resulting in a more uniform skin tone.

2. Treats acne

Mandelic acid, recognized for its antibacterial properties, serves as an excellent remedy for skin prone to acne. Research published in the Dermatology Review in 2015 indicates that skincare products containing 5 or 10 per cent mandelic acid are both safe and effective for treating acne. This acid works by eliminating bacteria that cause acne, alleviating inflammation, and preventing future breakouts, thereby promoting clearer skin.

3. Enhances skin texture  

Mandelic acid contributes to the refinement of skin texture through gentle exfoliation. According to Dr. Bhatt, this process diminishes roughness, reduces the visibility of enlarged pores, and results in a smoother, more polished appearance. A 2018 study in the Facial Plastic Surgery journal supports its efficacy as a topical treatment for enhancing skin quality.

4. Anti-aging advantages  

As a potent exfoliant, mandelic acid diminishes the visibility of fine lines and wrinkles. An analysis published in the Dermatology Review in 2015 highlights its effectiveness in wrinkle treatment. Experts note that it also promotes collagen production, which enhances skin elasticity and leads to a firmer, more youthful appearance.

5. Repairs skin from sun damage  

Mandelic acid is proficient in mending damage inflicted by ultraviolet radiation and environmental stressors. Experts assert that it aids in lightening sunspots—blemishes resulting from excessive sun exposure—reduces skin tanning, and restores the skin's inherent brightness.

Salicylic acid vs mandelic acid: Which one is better?

Salicylic acid for skin

Salicylic acid, classified as a beta hydroxy acid, possesses a smaller molecular structure, enabling it to penetrate the skin more deeply. According to Dr. Bhatt, it is particularly effective for individuals with oily or acne-prone skin, as it efficiently unclogs pores and regulates sebum production. The comedolytic characteristics of salicylic acid render it a valuable peeling agent for those experiencing acne, as indicated by research published in the Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology journal in 2015. However, it may occasionally lead to dryness or irritation, especially in individuals with sensitive skin.

In contrast, mandelic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), has a larger molecular size, resulting in slower penetration and a gentler effect, making it less likely to cause irritation. Experts note that it is especially advantageous for sensitive skin and darker skin tones that are susceptible to hyperpigmentation. Furthermore, mandelic acid enhances skin texture, diminishes acne, and brightens the overall complexion.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology in 2019 revealed that a 45 per cent mandelic acid peel was as effective as a 30 per cent salicylic acid peel for individuals with mild facial acne. Notably, the safety and tolerability of the mandelic acid peel were found to be superior to those of the salicylic acid peel.

Dr. Bhatt emphasizes that while salicylic acid excels in deep pore cleansing and managing oily skin, mandelic acid serves as a gentler, versatile alternative suitable for those with sensitive skin or individuals seeking to address hyperpigmentation and texture concerns.

How to use mandelic acid for the skin?

1. Beginners should take their time

Daily use is possible; however, it is contingent upon your skin type and its tolerance levels. For individuals who are new to this product or have sensitive skin, it is advisable to initiate usage gradually with a lower concentration, applying it every other night or a few times per week to facilitate skin adjustment. According to the expert, starting with a 5 per cent AHA concentration is preferable to allow for gradual adaptation. If your skin is already familiar with AHAs such as glycolic or lactic acid, or retinol, a 10 per cent concentration may be manageable, although conducting a patch test is recommended. For those with sensitive or dry skin, a 10 per cent concentration is generally not recommended, as it may worsen dryness or irritation.

2. Start slow with mandelic acid

Begin with a gradual approach, utilizing the product once or twice a week, and increase the frequency as your skin becomes accustomed to it. It is advisable to combine it with a hydrating moisturizer and to apply sunscreen during the day, as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) can heighten sensitivity to ultraviolet damage.

3. Exercise caution  

Mandelic acid should be applied with care if you are already using other exfoliating agents such as retinol or benzoyl peroxide in your skincare regimen, as their simultaneous use may result in excessive exfoliation.

4. Adhere to a routine  

Initially, it is advisable to opt for a lower concentration of mandelic acid, especially in your evening skincare routine. After cleansing your face with a gentle cleanser, apply the mandelic acid serum, followed by a moisturizer to retain hydration and reinforce your skin’s barrier. This method ensures that your skin reaps the benefits of exfoliation without experiencing irritation.

What are the side effects of using mandelic acid for the skin?

The side effects of this acid can vary depending on its concentration and how it's used. It is important to introduce it gradually into your skincare routine, starting with once a week and observing how your skin tolerates it.

• If used on dry skin at higher concentrations or applied every night, it can lead to rashes and irritation.
• You can also experience skin dryness.
• Peeling of the skin is another potential side effect.

Mandelic acid is effective in enhancing skin texture, minimizing acne, lightening pigmentation, and fostering a uniform skin tone. While it is suitable for all skin types, it is particularly advantageous for individuals with oily or acne-prone skin. Nonetheless, it is advisable to consult with a dermatologist prior to incorporating a new skincare product into your daily routine.

Read Also: Bioderma vs. Dermatouch: Which Face Wash Reigns Supreme for Acne-Prone Skin?

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