Air India does not often recount its own history, possibly because those who remember it have largely departed from the airline. 

During the 1960s and much of the 1970s, Air India provided a daily service between London and New York. 

At that time, the trans-Atlantic route was fiercely contested, with European and American airlines vying for dominance. Despite being a relatively small airline from a nation with little aviation heritage, Air India succeeded in establishing a presence in this competitive market.

Major global airlines sought to understand Air India's success. They found that its punctuality did not compare favorably to that of Pan Am. Pricing could not be a factor either, as the IATA cartel mandated uniform fares across the board. The aircraft were similar as well, primarily sourced from Boeing.

After thorough analysis, they concluded that the allure of exoticism might have played a role: the era of prominent Southeast Asian carriers had not yet begun, and Air India was perceived similarly to how Singapore Airlines is viewed today.

However, the primary reason for its appeal was the food. During this period, airlines predominantly offered European cuisine. Even Japan Airlines, the most recognized Asian carrier, served Western dishes. A menu from JAL in 1966 featured items like Chicken Galantine with Glazed Carrots, with no Japanese options available.

Research indicated that passengers preferred Air India's Indian cuisine over the European offerings provided by American and British airlines.

The clear implication was that travelers favored distinct flavors. However, was the situation truly that straightforward?

Air India's success prompted airlines to investigate which types of food were most palatable at cruising altitudes of 35,000 feet. They were already aware of the challenges associated with cooking at such heights. As early as 1939, Don Magarrell of United Airlines, a prominent figure in airline catering, observed that boiling an egg took six minutes instead of the usual three at 5,000 feet. Additionally, coffee stored in a Thermos would expand at high altitudes, potentially causing the lid to pop off.

Despite this knowledge, no one had taken the initiative to assess how food actually tasted at elevated altitudes. The example set by Air India—wherein the inflight meals were significantly more flavorful than those offered by Pan Am, BOAC, or even Air France—encouraged other airlines to delve into the topic. Unlike the present day, when inflight catering is often outsourced, many airlines managed their own food preparation during the 1960s and 1970s.

They concluded that food prepared at sea level has a markedly different taste at 35,000 feet. Several factors contribute to this phenomenon. At high altitudes, our sense of smell diminishes by at least 30 percent, and since smell is crucial to taste, this has a significant impact. Furthermore, airplane cabins tend to dehydrate the palate, further diminishing our taste perception. This can lead to a notable reduction in the perception of sweetness and saltiness.

In 1973, to address this issue, France's UTA airline enlisted the expertise of Raymond Olivier, the chef from the three-Michelin-star restaurant Le Grand Véfour in Paris, to create more altitude-appropriate meals. Olivier modified all the recipes, incorporating additional salt, sugar, butter, and cream. The results were striking and garnered considerable attention.

In Germany, LSG, a leading catering company, found that the flavors of European spices were often lost at high altitudes, prompting them to reformulate their recipes to enhance the spiciness of their dishes. Ernst Derenthal from LSG remarked to The Wall Street Journal that airline meals would significantly improve if Indian curries were served on flights, although he acknowledged that passengers might resist this idea.

Despite the enthusiasm behind this research, tangible changes have been minimal. For example, Heston Blumenthal collaborated with British Airways on a television program that illustrated how umami flavors could endure at high altitudes, suggesting that increasing umami content in inflight meals would enhance their taste. While the program resonated with viewers, it ultimately did not lead to any lasting improvements.

Most specialists in inflight catering assert that creating meals for Indian airlines is relatively straightforward. Gravy-based dishes help mitigate texture issues associated with proteins like steak, while the spices invigorate the palate. Additionally, there is always the option of incorporating umami-rich "Oriental" dishes for variety.

Given these benefits, and considering that Air India once set a standard that compelled Western airlines to reassess their catering practices, one might wonder why airline food has not improved.

Part of the issue lies in the scale of operations. When a flight kitchen produces thousands of meals, maintaining quality becomes challenging. Furthermore, meals are typically prepared hours in advance and reheated inadequately in basic ovens before being served. As comedienne Joan Rivers humorously noted, “The average aircraft is 16 years old, and so is the average airline meal.”

However, the primary reason is that airlines have largely lost interest in food quality. While there are exceptions—such as Qantas, Emirates, and Singapore Airlines—they represent a small fraction of the industry. In contrast to airline advertisements from three decades ago that prominently featured onboard meals, such marketing is now virtually nonexistent. Moreover, many airlines today do not prioritize the dining experience for business-class passengers.

On Air India, while the presentation may vary, the quality of food served across all cabins remains fundamentally the same. Although the menus in the front of the aircraft may appear more appealing, the taste of the food does not differ. It seems that Indigo lacks ovens for reheating meals on many of its planes, as catering has never been a primary focus for the airline.

The primary concern is cost reduction. Managers often hear the tale of Robert Crandall, the former Chairman of American Airlines, who reportedly saved the airline significant amounts by eliminating one olive from each salad. Although this story has been discredited, it continues to be cited in management courses as an example of exceptional managerial acumen.

When the focus is on minimizing expenses for passengers to maximize profits, what can one expect? Is it any surprise that, despite passenger complaints about airline food, many flight catering companies continue to thrive financially?

Modern airlines primarily transport passengers from point A to point B (mostly) and show little regard for the quality of food served during the journey.

However, it could be different. The Crandall-olive anecdote has a contrasting example. In 2008, a frustrated passenger penned a sharply sarcastic letter to Richard Branson regarding the poor quality of food on a Virgin flight from India to London. While most airlines would have opted for a chatbot or a public relations representative to respond, Branson took the time to reply personally. Virgin made the letter public, and the dissatisfied passenger was invited to the flight kitchen to engage with the chefs and propose menu improvements. This situation could have resulted in a public relations failure, but Virgin transformed it into a success, ultimately leading to an enhancement in food quality.

Achieving such outcomes requires a leader with Branson's charisma, talent, and genuine concern for passengers.

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