Sarees have long been a fundamental element of Indian fashion, seamlessly merging tradition with enduring sophistication. As contemporary fashion trends continue to progress, the allure of sarees, particularly Banarasi silk, remains remarkably resilient. Authentic Banarasi sarees are meticulously handwoven using high-quality silk yarn, reflecting the exceptional artistry of skilled craftsmen.

However, the growing demand for these iconic garments has led to an increase in counterfeit products, often sold at high prices despite their subpar quality. To ensure that you acquire a genuine piece and avoid falling victim to fraudulent offerings, it is crucial to learn how to identify an authentic Banarasi silk saree.

Nishit Gupta, a fashion expert and director at KALKI, has provided valuable insights to Mobile Masala on how to recognize a true Banarasi saree.

1. Flip to other side

Genuine Banarasi silk sarees are entirely handwoven and feature intricate handwork that can take weeks or even months to complete. Examine the reverse side of the saree; authentic Banarasi pieces will display floating threads, a hallmark of handmade textiles. In contrast, machine-made sarees will have a smoother back with minimal thread detailing.

2. The Banarasi GI (Geographical Indication) tag

A genuine Banarasi silk saree will bear a GI tag, which certifies its authenticity and confirms its origin from Varanasi, India. Always verify this certification when making a purchase to ensure you are investing in a true handwoven saree.

3. Check weight of the saree

Authentic Banarasi silk sarees tend to be slightly heavier due to the rich silk threads and genuine zari work. If the saree feels excessively light while claiming to feature intricate zari work, it is likely not authentic.

4. Purity of zari

Original Banarasi sarees incorporate real gold and silver zari, whereas contemporary versions may utilize tested or imitation zari. To verify, gently rub the zari; if a reddish or silver thread appears underneath, it is genuine. Conversely, if a white or plastic-like thread emerges, it is artificial.

5. Ring test

To assess the quality of a saree, pass it through a small ring. A genuine silk saree should glide through effortlessly, while synthetic or blended sarees may snag or become stuck.

6. Price and authenticity check

Investing in pure Banarasi silk sarees is significant, and their price reflects the level of craftsmanship involved. If the cost appears unusually low for a finely woven saree, it is likely a synthetic or power-loom variant.

Other tips to keep in mind

Deepika Govind, leveraging her expertise in fashion design, emphasizes several crucial aspects for identifying an authentic Banarasi saree.

• It is essential to examine the motifs, as Banarasi sarees typically feature elaborate floral patterns, bel amru, ambi, and other designs, often characterized by their intricate Mughal influences.
• The quality of craftsmanship is readily apparent.
• It is also advisable to verify the credibility of the seller.
• Banarasi sarees are crafted from the finest pure silk.
• Weaves such as katan are distinctive to Banarasi sarees, known for their smooth texture and heavier weight.
• These sarees incorporate pure silver zari and gold-plated zari.
• A critical point to remember is to check for polyester blends. To do this, pull out a thread and burn it; if it melts into clumps, it is polyester, whereas pure silk will emit an odor similar to burnt human hair.

To further confirm the authenticity of the silver zari, a magnet can be used. Additionally, rubbing the zari threads against a granite surface should leave a residue of gold or silver color. When inspecting the reverse side of the saree, note that machine-made floats will appear smooth, while handloom weaves will display pin marks made by the weaver. Always request a certificate of authenticity, as advised by Deepika.

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